Best Puppy Crates by Breed Size (2026 Buying Guide)
The best puppy crate is the one sized for your dog's adult weight with a divider for now. Here is how to choose by breed, plus our top picks.
Buy for the adult dog, not the puppy
The single most common crate mistake is buying small because your puppy is small today. A wire crate is cheap per inch, and re-buying twice as your dog grows is pure waste. Instead, buy the crate that fits your dog's projected adult size, then shrink the usable space with a divider while they are young. This saves money, avoids the hassle of retraining in a new crate later, and means the crate is a permanent safe den rather than a temporary box your puppy outgrows in eight weeks.
- Estimate adult weight from the breed standard or your rescue's guess
- A crate should let an adult dog stand, turn around, and lie flat
- Re-buying a bigger crate twice costs more than one right-sized crate
- If you are between two sizes, size up and use the divider
The crate-size chart by adult weight
Crate length is measured in inches along the longest wall, and manufacturers size by adult weight, not breed name. Use your dog's expected grown-up weight to pick. If your puppy is a mixed breed, weigh the parents or ask your vet for an estimate, then round up. These ranges line up with the divider-style wire crates most owners buy, so the same crate carries from 8 weeks to adulthood with the panel moved or removed.
- Up to 25 lb (toy/small: Yorkie, Mini Dachshund): 24 inch crate
- 26 to 40 lb (Cocker, Beagle, small mixes): 30 inch crate
- 41 to 70 lb (Lab, Boxer, Aussie, Pittie): 36 inch crate
- 71 to 90 lb (Golden, Doberman, Shepherd): 42 inch crate
- 91 lb and up (Great Dane, Mastiff, Rottweiler): 48 inch crate
The divider trick that makes one crate last
A divider is a flat panel that walls off the back of a large crate so your puppy only gets enough room to stand, turn, and lie down. This matters because a crate that is too big lets a puppy potty in one corner and sleep in another, which sabotages house training. As your puppy grows, slide the divider back every couple of weeks. Most quality wire crates include a divider; if yours does not, you can buy a universal one. Pair this with our puppy potty schedule for faster results.
- Give just enough room to stand, turn, and lie flat, no more
- Move the panel back as your puppy gains height and length
- Too much space invites potty accidents inside the crate
- Remove the divider entirely once house training is solid
Wire, plastic, soft-sided, or heavy-duty
The material decides how the crate behaves. Wire crates fold flat, ventilate well, and almost always include a divider, which is why they are the default first crate. Plastic airline crates feel more den-like and are required for flights. Soft-sided crates are light and travel-friendly but a determined chewer will shred them. Heavy-duty steel crates exist for escape artists and powerful breeds that bend wire. Match the build to your puppy's temperament, not just their size, and read our crate training schedule before the first night.
- Wire: best all-rounder, folds flat, ships with a divider
- Plastic/airline: cozy, den-like, needed for air travel
- Soft-sided: light and packable, not for chewers or escapees
- Heavy-duty steel: for anxious escape artists and strong jaws
Doors, latches, and the safety details that matter
Beyond size, the details decide whether a crate is a calm den or a daily struggle. A double-door model lets you place the crate flexibly in a room or car. Slide-bolt or twist latches resist clever paws far better than a single spring clip. A leak-proof plastic pan saves your floor during accidents and is far easier to wipe than a wire grid. Rounded corners and smooth edges prevent snagged collars. These touches cost little but make the difference between a crate you fight with and one you forget about.
- Double doors add placement flexibility in rooms and cars
- Secure slide-bolt latches beat a single clip for smart pups
- A removable, leak-proof pan makes accident cleanup painless
- Look for smooth edges so collars and tags cannot snag
Common crate-buying mistakes to avoid
Most regret comes from a handful of avoidable errors. Buying too small forces a second purchase within months. Buying huge without a divider stalls house training. Skipping a chew-proof option for a teething power-breed leads to a destroyed soft crate and a vet bill. And padding a young puppy's crate with a plush bed they shred is both expensive and risky. Start with a thin, washable mat, upgrade the bedding once chewing settles, and never use the crate as punishment or the whole tool backfires.
- Too small now means buying again in two months
- Too big with no divider slows potty training
- No chew-proof option for a teething large breed invites destruction
- Plush bedding too early gets shredded and swallowed
Our top picks
PuppyFam is reader-supported. When you buy through links on this page we may earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you. We only recommend gear we would use with our own puppies.
MidWest iCrate Double-Door (with divider)
The default first crate for most puppies: folds flat, two doors for flexible placement, leak-proof pan, and an included divider that grows with your dog.
Typical price: $40-$80
MidWest iCrate 36 inch (medium breeds)
The 36 inch size fits 41 to 70 lb adults like Labs, Boxers, and Pitties. Use the divider while your puppy is young, then open it up to full length.
Typical price: $50-$75
AmazonBasics Single-Door Wire Crate
A no-frills wire crate with a divider and slide pan that covers the basics for a fraction of the price, ideal for calm puppies and tight budgets.
Typical price: $30-$55
Frisco Heavy-Duty Steel Crate
Reinforced steel construction for anxious chewers and strong breeds that bend or open standard wire crates. Heavier and pricier, but escape-proof.
Typical price: $120-$250
Petmate Sky Kennel (plastic/airline)
An airline-compliant plastic crate that feels den-like and cozy, the right pick if your puppy settles better enclosed or you plan to fly.
Typical price: $45-$130
Quick answers
What size crate should I get for my puppy?
Size by your dog's expected adult weight, not their current size. A 36 inch crate suits most 41 to 70 lb breeds like Labs, while toy breeds need only a 24 inch. Buy the adult size and use a divider to shrink the space while your puppy is young, then slide it back as they grow.
Should I buy a crate with a divider?
Yes, almost always. A divider lets one large crate fit a tiny puppy by walling off the extra space, which prevents accidents because puppies avoid soiling where they sleep. As your puppy grows you slide the panel back, so a single crate lasts from 8 weeks to adulthood instead of needing two or three purchases.
Is a wire or plastic crate better for a puppy?
Wire crates are the better first choice for most owners: they fold flat, ventilate well, and usually include a divider for sizing. Plastic airline crates feel more den-like and are required for flights. Choose plastic if your puppy seems calmer enclosed, wire if you want maximum flexibility and easy cleanup.
How much should I spend on a puppy crate?
A solid divider-style wire crate runs roughly $35 to $80 depending on size, and that one crate should last for life. Heavy-duty steel crates for escape artists cost more, often $120 to $250. Avoid the cheapest no-name crates with flimsy latches, since a determined puppy can bend or open them.
Can a crate be too big for a puppy?
Yes. A crate with too much room lets a puppy sleep in one corner and potty in another, which undermines house training because they no longer have to hold it. That is exactly why dividers exist: keep the usable space just big enough to stand, turn, and lie flat until your puppy is reliably clean.